Leaving early from San Sebastian, we drove into France and along the coast of the Bay of Biscay. We were headed to Arcachon, where oyster cabanes line the bay, as many of France's oysters are farmed in astonishing numbers here.
We had a memorable lunch at Cabane des Aiguillons, sitting on the simple wooden jetty in a working oyster bed on a stretch of beach with the boats at low tide.
Little sparrows danced on the table, pecking at the food. We ate fat, fresh oysters on big plates with white wine, bread and butter. It was perfection, including the setting. As memorable as the fanciest of excellent dinners we'd had on this trip (St James outside Bordeaux, Pateo in Lisbon, Kokotxa in San Sebastian).
From Arcachon we drove four hours north into the Loire, to spend the last night of our trip in Rochecorbon.
We were welcomed with a bottle of chilled white local Loire wine and a tarte citron to eat in the front courtyard, surrounded by lavender, orange trees and rose bushes.
Compared with the traditional exterior, the inside of the house was an interesting surprise - contemporary furniture mixed with traditional pieces.
We set off for a slow walk down to the river, through the village of Rochecorbon, picture perfect with winding narrow roads and gorgeous well-to-do homes and gardens.
The village sits just above a northern bank of the Loire, where all was bucolic and peaceful.
Showered and dressed for dinner, we found our lovely host had prepared a simple feast on a garden table under the trees with fat candles. There was a salad of leaves and spring onions with vinaigrette, sliced tomatoes with a sprinkling of goats cheese, local cheeses and charcuterie, sliced filet mignon, rillette, a baguette and butter. Perfection again, and the best final night of our trip I could imagine.
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