Arriving in Zaragoza late afternoon, we had time to explore the historic city centre close to the river Ebro.
There were broad avenues, good architectural design blending old and new, plenty of public spaces and fountains
and heaps of tabernas and tapas bars, though these were not too busy yet
Wandering the streets, the cathedral of Nuestra Señora del Pilar loomed ...
... constructed, according to legend, on the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to Santiago (of Compostela fame) on top of a pillar of jasper - leaving the pillar (the eponymous pilar) behind her, around which this cathedral was later built.
What's interesting about this particular legend, for lovers of Catholic trivia like me, is not only that it's the first ever recorded apparition of Mary, but that she was actually still alive and living in Jerusalem at the time she appeared to Jesus' apostle James/Santiago here on the banks of the Ebro. So it's also the only claimed instance of a living, still-earthly Mary demonstrating the mystical superpower of bilocation - very cool I thought!
We didn't get to see the pilar, however, as there was a mass in progress inside the cathedral, which also meant that we couldn't take any pictures of the truly impressive interior. But as the heat was still fierce at 6.30 pm, we were happy to slide into a pew at the back and enjoy the coolness and a sung mass with live organist and haunting female singer.
We exchanged a peace-be-with-you with some friendly old ladies in front of us when the moment came, and let the sounds of the music and familiar ritual in an unfamiliar language wash over us while contemplating the Goya frescoes on the sides of the basilica. A pretty memorable experience.
Outside, in the Plaza del Pilar, families were taking relief from the heat by splashing in the fountain
The Fountain of Hispanicity is carved in the shape of the coastlines of Cuba and Latin America (above) and water flows from here down into an adjacent pool (below) in the shape of the rest of South America, down to Tierra del Fuego.
(So, somewhat erroneously, it includes Brazil in Hispanidad, but why be pedantic on a hot day).
This massive plaza is surrounded by monolithic court buildings and a great slab of a statue honouring Goya, Zaragoza's local son.
We had a beer in a shady square and went back to the hotel to shower. Around 9 pm when we went back out on the streets, the tapas bars were only just starting to fill up and the paseo starting.
We ate at a table in the street, watching the parade of passers-by and had good squid with garlic and black aioli, then shared a large paella de marisco and a bottle of cold white Albariño.
Zaragoza, Spain
Iberian road trip, Day 3, June 2017
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