Puglia towns: Polignano a Mare

 

 Polignano a Mare was perhaps my favourite of Puglia towns.

Perched on top of a limestone cliff, steep steps lead down to a beach enclosed by great rocks and cliffs on two sides, and the impossibly deep blue of the Adriatic, where yachts pass close by leisurely swimmers.

There's a palpably happy feel to this place, perhaps because it has the feel of a well-loved, special summer holiday spot without being chic or fashionable.

The happy factor is perfectly summed up in this statue, given pride of place: it's Polignano a Mare's favourite son ... 

... Domenico Medugno, who wrote and composed Volare and Ciao ciao bambina. 

I love that he's in full voice and theatrical exuberant pose, with his back to the sea of his hometown. Who could not understand his enthusiasm for this place?

We'd come for lunch at the Osteria right next to Domenico's statue ...

where we had a totally memorable sequence of exquisite grilled prawns, an exquisite risotto ai frutti di mare, and sea bass, all pulled from the mare outside.

An elderly Italian couple sitting next to us at the Osteria had travelled some distance to come here especially to take selfies with Domenico and were enthusiastically comparing pictures over lunch.

Afterwards we walked through an ancient stone archway to the centro storico, the oldest part of this seaside village ...

where we found poetry written on doorways and steps ...

and a quiet café terrace with a view to the sea

Driving back through olive groves I had Ciao, Ciao Bambina playing on a loop in my head.

Polignano a Mare, Puglia, Italy, September 2016

Puglia trip