Pasteis de Belém and the LX factory

From Cascais we drove into Lisbon on a Sunday morning, making an essential stop along the way in Belém for pasteis de nata at the original Fabrica de Pasteis de Belém

where we got caught up with the tail end, so to speak, of the changing of the guard passing from the nearby president's palace.

These cavalrymen were absolutely not going to be distracted by the surrounding chaos of cars, tuk tuks, people hanging out of their windows and the crowds queuing for their pasteis. It was clearly a serious business for them

First we tried a sneak peek into the kitchen where 20,000 tarts are made daily 

but this is as close as you can get, because the mystique around this place relies on the original nuns' recipe being kept top secret.

The proof is in the eating, and as always these lived up to their reputation as the ultimate pastel that will ruin any lesser pastel for you. Is it partly because of their extra freshness? With one being made every second, they come to your table in the grand tiled, high-ceilinged sala still oven-warm 

Fortified by the rites of holy pasteis, we drove a little further into Lisbon, to the LX Factory,

parking outside these fabulous traditional buildings in what used to be a poor, industrial area, now decorated with artwork ...

Under the suspension bridge on the riverside, old disused factories have been reappropriated to create a huge market space.

There's everything from fresh produce to cafés to outlets for loads of independent creatives and artisans.

In the boiling heat, trees gave shade for the crowds at outdoor cafés, but there were also quiet courtyard spaces outside artists' studios

Portugal's literary greats are not forgotten - 

Saramago ...

and Pessoa ...

We spent a good hour browsing in the fantastic (both aesthetically and for content) bookshop, Ler Devagar (Read Slowly)

before considering trying the 'best chocolate cake in the country' at Landeau ...

but still too full of pasteis de nata, we just had a life-saving ice-cold drink here instead

and drove up the hills of the city into Alfama, to the gorgeous Memmo ...

 with these views over the rooftops of Lisbon and the river ...

Lisbon, Portugal

Day 11, Iberian road trip, June 2017

Beach, boats and art in Cascais

 

After three days of peace and luxury in the Alentejo, we drove north. Approaching Lisbon we crossed the Ponte 25 de Abril, a bridge with layers of memory for me. 

As a young child I attended with my diplomat parents the ceremony for the inauguration of the new bridge in 1966 - named the Ponte Salazar for the tyrant who would die only 4 years later, after 36 years of repressive dictatorship. 

I don't recall seeing Salazar himself there, though he was present, but clearly imprinted in my memory is watching the blessing of the new bridge by the Cardinal Patriarch of Lisbon, surrounded by colourful robed cardinals, and the Presidente da Republica Américo Tomás cutting the ribbon, flanked by government ministers.

Only the cardinals and priests would survive in office after the revolution of 74. From then on, the bridge was named for the great day of 25 April; no year needed to be added to the name, as no one would forget it.

The bridge is visible from almost everywhere in Lisbon and down the coast, and besides the revolution it is forever associated for me with escapes to the beaches of Caparica or further south to the Algarve, and the return to home in Lisbon.

View of bridge and Cristo Rei from the Bairro Alto

We weren't headed for Lisbon, though. 

Instead we took a left to head down the auto estrada to Cascais, impressed by the new residential expansions along the way: nicely done, in good taste, giving so much more of an impression of prosperity than the suburbs of my childhood, young adulthood, or even 10-15 years ago.

And how impressive the regeneration of Cascais itself has been. No more tackiness or shabbiness. Everything is clean and well-cared for; wide tree-lined streets are planted with flowers; the old buildings spruced up and new buildings in contemporary style sympathetically done to blend with the old.

The big central park is well looked after, and is now the location of the Paula Rego museum and art gallery ...

The old fort of Cascais is now also surrounded by museums and galleries

 

The location of the Pestana hotel, where we'd booked for the night, was a fantastic surprise: inside the fort, in a huge square that used to house the military, is the Citadela that was formerly closed to the public but now reappropriated, the original buildings cleaned up and restored, and converted into the Citadela art district. 

Behind the facades are artists' studios and galleries. It's all understated; discreetly done.

In the second-hand bookshop, Déjà Lu, run by volunteers, all the books (in multiple languages, reflecting the diverse expat population living here) are donated, and the proceeds go to the local Downs Syndrome society.

The restaurant on the square, Taberna da Praça, and even the huge Pestana hotel have discreet signage 

 

We discovered that the restrictions on commercial signs and advertising, which is now a feature of almost all of Cascais, is the result of a municipal law, along with free wifi in the whole area.

After exploring the Citadela we walked in intense heat along the Cascais beach front ...

... to the beautiful hotel Albatroz, former palace, for a lunch of salad and white wine on the terrace looking over the beach, rocks and sea ...

In the evening, still hot (the minimum overnight temperature was 37 degrees!), we walked down to the Marinha, to the Clube Naval. 

Another place of memories for me, as we set sail from here as children, on the small boat of a family friend, countless times, to mosey up the coast, anchor off-shore to dive off the boat into the sea and swim around. 

The Marinha had also been totally redeveloped since the last time we were here, with mainly restaurants and bars - fairly upmarket but informal and relaxed. 

Looking for somewhere to have a drink, we wandered accidentally into what turned out to be an invite-only pre-launch drinks party at Marisco da Praça, and were promptly offered vinho verde, cheese and bread for free by the friendliest staff ...

From there we walked back into the old town of Cascais. 5 Sentidos, where we'd hoped to eat, was full, so we walked some distance to the Mercado da Vila, Cascais' huge covered and indoor market for fresh food, where in welcome air-conditioning we had gambas, scallops and oysters before walking back to the Citadela and the sea.

Cascais, Portugal

Iberian road trip, Day 10, June 2017